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What Are The Best Guitars For Fingerpicking and Fingerstyle?

The guitars best suited to fingerpicking and fingerstyle tend to be smaller, feature a wider than standard fingerboard, are highly responsive, project individual notes with great clarity and feature a balanced tone.


Looking for a recommendation? Check out these great acoustic guitars, ideal for fingerstyle.

What is Fingerpicking?

In the market for a new guitar and don’t find yourself using a pick all that often? In the following article, we’ll break down the answer above in more detail and explain why some guitars are better suited to fingerpicking than others, and let you know exactly what to look for when shortlisting your potential new guitar options. This includes the type of guitars most suitable, the woods used and how this affects tone, and why any of this matters.

But, keep in mind while there are specific combinations of wood, body shape and size that are more commonly associated with fingerpicking than others, the truth is the tone of your guitar is reliant on many different factors. These include how you play the guitar e.g. do you play with a thumb pick or the flesh of your fingers? The strings you use e.g. are they bright or dull sounding? The room you are playing in, along with a thousand other considerations. So, take the information below as a guide but keep in mind there is no substitute to your own ears and your own musical tastes.


The difference between fingerstyle and fingerpicking?

Before we get too far, let’s quickly address an important misconception about fingerstyle and fingerpicking. These terms are often used interchangeably and may result in you receiving the wrong advice when talking to your local music store for example.

Amongst the many styles and approaches to guitar, guitarists in the majority of cases use either a pick (flat picking) or fingers (fingerstyle). Fingerstyle, as a result encompasses a wide range of styles including classical guitar and jazz to name just a couple. As a result there really is no best guitar for fingerstyle, as the term covers far too many genres.

Fingerpicking, on the other hand, is a subset of fingerstyle guitar (much like ‘car’ is a subset of ‘vehicle’) and incorporates an alternating bass pattern played with the thumb while the fingers provide the melody on the treble strings. Finger pickers will sometimes use a thumb pick, but there are many who do not. A variant of fingerpicking is travis picking, although, again the two terms are often used interchangeably.

Guitarists who play in this style include Tommy Emanuel, Chet Atkins and Merle Travis to name just a few.


What makes a good fingerpicking guitar?

Acoustic guitars come in all shapes and sizes. And while it’s often assumed this is for aesthetic purposes only, acoustic guitars are, for the most part, designed in a very deliberate manner to bring out the subtleties and nuances of the style of music they are intended for.

Because of this, the best guitars for fingerpicking take the subtleties of the style of music into account. Because fingerpicking involves playing with the fingers (unless using a thumb pick) and plucking individual notes with a constant bass line the ideal fingerpicking guitar needs to be:

  • Comfortable to play with the fingers as opposed to strumming
  • Provide good separation of strings (ideal when playing with fingers)
  • Highly responsive e.g. not require a heavy attack to project volume
  • Project individual notes with great clarity
  • Balanced tone e.g. bass and treble frequencies are not overly dominant

With that in mind, let’s take a closer look at the many available options when selecting a new acoustic guitar, including body size and shape along with tonewoods.

Martin 000 Acoustic GuitarBody Size

Smaller bodied guitars e.g. concert and orchestra styles have long been associated with fingerpicking. This is due to the following:

Comfort

This will be fairly obvious to most guitarists. A smaller guitar is more comfortable to hold and play due to its more compact size, compared to the larger dreadnought or jumbo which can have an impact on reach and just feel bulkier to play. When playing in a standing position the weight of a smaller bodied guitar is also less.

Some smaller bodied guitars also have a shorter scale length. The shorter the scale length the less tension required on the strings making them more sensitive and simpler to fret.

Responsiveness

While a larger bodied instrument e.g. a dreadnought is considered a louder guitar, this tends to refer to its capability to produce volume when played with a pick and incorporating strumming.

Due to the larger internal dimensions of the body, there is more air capable of being displaced. But additional energy is required to displace the air contained within the body cavity.

In the case of guitars best suited to fingerpicking, smaller guitars, when played with the fingers will often produce as much or more volume than a larger guitar, because there is less energy required to move air within a smaller area, making them more responsive to the lighter attack of fingerpicking.

Clarity

All things being equal, the shallower the guitar body, the more focused the tone. As a result, a smaller guitar will typically project individual notes with greater clarity.

Larger instruments produce more of a boomy, bass response due to the deeper sides of the body which push a greater volume of air. As a result, the fundamental tone isn’t as dominant and has a deeper cutoff frequency. This is much the same for drums (consider the depth of a snare, in comparison to the bass drum).

Clarity is important when it comes to fingerpicking as this style does not typically include strumming i.e. multiple strings played at once and instead relies on picking out individual notes using the thumb and fingers.

Balance

As mentioned, smaller bodied instruments produce less of a bass response than the larger bodied dreadnought. In a practical sense this means the bass notes (remember fingerpicking relies heavily on the thumb playing a constant, accompanying bass line) will not drown out the melody lines being played on the treble strings.

Typically smaller guitars provide a more balanced bass and treble response while accentuating the mid range tones. This also contributes to reducing feedback if playing in front of a mic. Low-frequency resonant feedback is a real problem when playing live.

Many dedicated fingerpicking guitars also position the neck joint at the 12th fret, unlike the standard 14th fret that most acoustic guitars utilize. This provides additional space around the top of the soundhole and affects the position of the internal bracing of the guitar and the bridge. 

Because of this the bridge sits further down on the guitar body, placing it in the widest section of the guitar, the middle of the lower bout. While completely subjective, many guitarists believe this produces a warmer, richer sound when played with the fingers.

Body Shape

Narrow waist acoustic guitar

The shape of the guitar has an impact on two specific areas. The tonal quality and how comfortable the guitar is to play. Many of the guitars considered most ideal for fingerpicking feature tight waists for this reason.

Comfort

The area between the lower and upper bout is known as the waist of the guitar. Guitars with tighter waists e.g. concert and orchestra shapes as opposed to the larger dreadnought are considered by many as being more comfortable to play in a seated position.

Tone

While a larger body produces a boomier more bass driven sound, the shape of the guitar can also influence the sound produced. In the case of the dreadnought, the wider waist of the guitar and location of the waist contribute to the boomier sound due to the greater surface area the wider waist allows for.

The jumbo guitar, a larger bodied guitar than the dreadnought, features a tighter waistline and is a good example of how the shape impacts tone. Generally speaking jumbos are more articulate and balanced than dreadnoughts and this is due to the narrower waist line.

When sound is generated due to the soundboard resonating from the vibrations of the strings, the soundwaves produced bounce around, reflecting the sides of the internal cavity of the guitar body. A tighter waist results in reduced bass response, nullifying, at least to an extent the boomier nature of the guitar and providing greater clarity.

Additionally, the shape of the guitar itself governs the internal bracing of the guitar which also plays a role in the how the soundboard of the guitar resonates sound.

Does a cutaway affect tone also?
Yes, a cutaway also reduces the total area of the guitar body resulting in a lower bass response and a reduction in volume. This can result in a ‘brighter’ sounding guitar, although additional factors such as the materials (e.g. a Sitka spruce soundboard is brighter sounding than western red cedar) and size of the guitar can balance this to some extent.


Tonewoods

Cedar soundboard

If you are interested in reading an in-depth guide to tonewoods and how they impact the playability and tone of the guitar check out the complete guide here.

The wood your guitar is built from has a big influence on the sound produced. The soundboard being the most influential component due to it large surface area and direct contact with the bridge that transfers the vibrations from the strings. While tone woods are often the subject of much debate when it comes to electric guitars acoustic guitars rely heavily on the materials used.

How wood affects tone

Density

The more dense the wood the guitar is built from the less the timber can absorb the sound waves generated. When this occurs, sound is reflected at a greater velocity resulting in a faster overall response.

While fingerpicking benefits from this greater response, it can also lead to tonal imbalances e.g. dominant highs and/or lows. Guitars intended for fingerpicking are best when the tone is well balanced e.g. the bass and/or treble frequencies are not overly dominant. As a result less dense timbers generally produce a more balanced sound but sacrifice some responsiveness as a result.

Western red cedar for example is often used by guitarists who play with the fingers. Being a less dense tonewood than Sitka Spruce for example it is credited with a balanced, warm tone. Mahogany, also being a less dense wood is often credited for its mid range punch and greater sustain.

Timber pairings

While some tonewoods are considered brighter or more responsive than others, the pairing of the tonewoods used to construct the body and their tonal relationship is also important.

With regard to fingerpicking, common pairings include cedar top with rosewood sides, spruce top with mahogany sides and mahogany top and mahogany sides. But again, much of this is subjective and depends on a number of things including your attack on the guitar e.g. if you are a percussive player a softer soundboard wood is going to get marked and damaged fairly quickly.


Summary

While the information above, if considered when choosing your next guitar will provide a good starting point, the subtleties of how you play the guitar, the songs you choose to play, and in particular your attack on the guitar will have the largest impact on your sound.

For instance, some people swear by dreadnoughts for fingerpicking while others claim the heavier bass response drowns out the melodic lines played in accompaniment.

If you incorporate strumming along with fingerpicking and have a heavy picking hand a dreadnought is likely to be a better fit for you. If you play quieter, folk music a smaller guitar is likely to be a better fit for you.

20 thoughts on “What Are The Best Guitars For Fingerpicking and Fingerstyle?”

  1. Very Good article Marty
    Only 4 months try to play guitar and I love it. I want to purchase a acoustic guitar for mostly finger picking w/ wider neck 1.75’ my budget is $ 1000, What do you suggest

    • Thanks for the comment Bernard. Being left handed I can’t say I’ve been fortunate enough to play all of the guitars I’d recommend checking out. But in the wider neck department, take a look at Seagull, they do a lot of wider neck guitars. Otherwise I’m a big fan of Guild, the M240E would be worth a look and has a nut width of 1 11/16″ (43mm), alternatively I own an M120 which is great for fingerstyle and also worth a look, both are good comfortable guitars.

    • All I can do is give you my suggestions after trying quite a few. For your budget and neck size, I would recommend trying the following:

      Dreadnaughts:
      Martin DC Road Series RSGT ($999 @ Guitar Center)
      Taylor 210ce Rosewood ($899)
      Seagull S6 (about $500 +/-, many different models)

      Grand Auditoriums
      Martin GPC-11e ($999)
      Taylor 214ce-K ($999)

      Like many on here, I’ve tried a ton and I’ve gravitated towards Martins and Taylors. This doesn’t mean it will be right for you, but it’s my suggestion for you to try. The best bang for the buck is the Seagull S6 in my opinion. It won’t sound ‘as good’ as the Taylors and Martins I listed but it’s pretty close.

      Good luck.

  2. Marty, Im going to take exception with you for bringing up a 1 11/16″ nut for fingerpicking. Back in the early 70’s, with James Taylor being the one I wanted to emulate, I dumped a Martin D-28 because if the 1 11/16 nut. I jumped to the steel string extreme of a Martin 00-21 that has a 1 7/8 nut. After all these years of fingerstyle, the the absolutely smallest nut I can tolerate is 1 3/4, which is probably the very best overall, especially for capo-ing up to match my limited voice range.

  3. Thanks for commenting Phil, nice to hear from someone with your experience. Dumping a D-28 is a serious commitment!

    I agree, myself being someone with annoyingly large fingers I’d think 43mm would probably be closer to middle of the road…I mention the Guilds above for the smaller body size, which I find lends itself to finger style. But, a lot of the modern percussive finger style players play dreads, so I guess it depends what you become accustomed to. I heard recently the Furch OOM33 goes up to 48mm.

  4. Play the hell out of what you have, get competent at fingerpicking and then go shopping for that fancy guitar. When you do don’t follow advice. Play what feels right. I bought a parlour for fingerpicking thinking it was the ultimate fingerpicking guitar but with the way, I like to dig in, it sounded awful.
    The main thing to focus on is responsiveness, small builders can build you a responsive guitar regardless of dimensions.

    • Martin guitars aren’t mentioned in the article Noel. The article was written with the intention of explaining what makes a good fingerstyle guitar in terms of body shape, size and materials, without preferencing one particular brand of guitar over another.

  5. Hello. Looking to buy a new guitar. I’m 5’3″ female, right handed, short arms, small hands and according to your definition above, I’m 100% a “Fingerpicker”. Self taught w/out a pick. Play by ear, etc., Picks are awkward. I cannot use them. I do use my thumb for base when playing. It just happened naturally.. I’ve been playing for fun for 15 years on this what feels like a HUGE guitar for my frame. It was a gift from a x-boyfriend . Ibanez. Obviously, I’d like something smaller and your article above totally indicated to me. The guitar is literally so big if I play too long, my fingers & arms go to sleep. I’m leaning toward the mini-Martin. models. What do you suggest?

    • Thanks for your comment Teresa. It mostly comes down to budget, but if you prefer a smaller body guitar in a similar price range to the Martin LX1, I’d definitely recommend checking out the Taylor GS mini also, they’re exceptional for the price.

  6. Hi Marty,

    Thanks for the very informative read.
    I must admit alot of it goes above my head!
    I very much enjoyed how you explained the sounds interaction with the wood and size of the guitar.
    I must admit I got excited when you wrote about the smaller types of guitar as it is something that really appeals to me. I love the finger picking sounds that are warm and gentle as opposed to the harshness of the pick.
    Unfortunately, I am just getting overwhelmed by the choice. I have big hands and I always found it hard to fit my fingers in when I played years ago.
    I got lost again when fellow readers started speaking of nut sizes!
    Hopefully I can pick something out that small, warm and friendly before too long!

    Thanks for inspiring me a little!!

    • Thanks Paul, there’s definitely something about fingerstyle and smaller guitars that appeals to me, but there’s also a number of exceptional percussive fingerstyle players who also play on larger guitars e.g. Mike Dawes. Nut size, mostly relates to string spacing and is something to keep in mind considering ‘big hands’, at the end of the day though it is all elative, so I’d recommend testing out as many guitars asy ou can before settling on one.

  7. Great article! I’m a fingerpicker and play a lot of ’70’s fold rock (James Taylor, Jackson Browne, John Denver…). I have been playing Ovations since 1980. Currently play a 1985 Special Edition which has a narrower fret board that I have become quite used to and prefer. I’m interested in a 12 fret guitar with Cedar/Rosewood combination since that’s the tonewood combo that James Taylor’s guitars are made of. Any ideas?

    • Thanks for your comment Greg. The Taylor 712e 12-Fret offers optional Cedar top for an additional $100. Otherwise, Lowden may be worth a look e.g. I know the ‘Sheeran’ is available with Cedar top, Rosewood back and sides combination but unfortunately isn’t 12 fret. Best of luck, hope you find it.

  8. Thanks for the nice article! What if the budget gets a bit more challenging – around the 300-400$ mark. Do you think anything decent can come out of that price?

    • Hi Rudy, thanks for your comment. I’d be looking firstly at Yamaha, and perhaps Washburn. If you like the smaller scale length and body the Taylor GS mini, although probably closer to the $500 mark.

  9. Hi,
    I am trying to research acoustic/electric guitars for a gift for my partner. No rush, only just started looking into it. His acoustic playing style is finger style and he is left handed but plays guitar right handed (wtf?).
    I think he would probably like something with a relatively thin neck – this seems to be his preference when it comes to his electric guitars and playing those, also smaller size hands so makes sense.
    I want to get something that is good quality and well made to last a long time.
    I’m budgeting around AUD$1300-1500 new.
    Also- random question – if one were to get one of these guitars engraved, would you recommend that or would it damage/weaken the guitar in any way? And if it is ok to do, what part of the guitar would be best area to get that done?

    • Thanks for your comment Makensi.
      re: engraving. I can’t say I’ve had any experience with engraving guitars, but I’d be careful as this could ruin your finish.
      If it were me I’d stick to the scratchplate or take it to an engraver and get further advice.

      re: thin neck guitar
      Taylor 114CE. This is a thin neck guitar with a 1-11/16” nut width.
      This is on the cheaper side for Taylor but from all accounts a very good instrument, and very good value.
      Seagull makes a number of guitars with quite thin necks also, so maybe worth checking out.

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About Marty

My name's Marty, I've been into guitars for over 30 years. Theacousticguitarist.com is my blog where I write about acoustic guitars, music, and home recording.